Brake and clutch work we do
- Brake pads and discs — measured, machined or replaced
- Calipers that are sticking, seized or leaking
- Brake fluid flush and moisture testing
- Handbrake adjustment, including electronic park brakes
- ABS faults diagnosed and repaired
- Brake lines and hoses inspected for perishing and corrosion
- Clutch replacement, including the release bearing and spigot bearing
- Clutch master and slave cylinders
- Flywheel inspection and machining or replacement where needed
What the noises usually mean
A high squeal under light braking is often the wear indicator doing its job — the pads are near the end but you have time to book in. A grinding or grating noise means the friction material is gone and metal is on metal, which damages the disc and costs more the longer you leave it.
A pedal that sinks slowly, feels spongy, or pulls the car to one side is a different problem — usually fluid, a hose or a caliper — and it should be looked at straight away.
We measure before we quote
Pads and discs have a manufacturer minimum thickness. We measure both, tell you what is left, and give you a real answer on whether you need them now or at the next service. If your discs are above minimum and running true, machining them is cheaper than replacing them, and we will say so.
Clutches
A clutch that slips under load, judders when you take off, or has a pedal that has gone light is on its way out. Because the gearbox has to come out to reach it, we replace the pressure plate, friction plate and release bearing together, and check the flywheel while everything is apart. Doing it once properly is far cheaper than going back in six months later.
What it costs
Brake and clutch prices depend on the vehicle and the parts fitted. We quote after we have inspected and measured, and we tell you what is urgent and what can wait.